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Routing edges Options
blaedd
Posted: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 2:46:10 PM
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Location: Sydney
Hey all. So I have some kits on order, hopefully get them when I get back from overseas. I'll be painting them, so want to round the edges a bit. I have an orbital sander, but don't mind spending a little money on a low end router if that will give me a better result (the other thought was some rather tedious work with a metal file...)

My only problem is, I live in an apartment. My balcony is large enough to work on (4m x 1.5m) but I don't have a bench or anything to fix the boxes to while using the router. Is this a show stopper? Never used one, so erring on the side of caution unless you guys think the box weight and maybe someone holding it will be fine. Could probably brace against the balcony walls too (concrete ~ 1.4m high).

Kits I'm getting are S350, M6, C6. Depending on how far the bonus goes when it arrives may ponder some TL6 to finish off the set Anxious
Cal
Posted: Thursday, March 13, 2008 7:41:27 AM
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Location: Karratha
Wedging it into a corner will be fine (that's how I did my M6, M5 & C6). Just make sure that if anything gives you don't end up on top of the router bit as that will hurt a little.

LSK_Colin
Posted: Saturday, March 15, 2008 12:12:19 PM
Rank: LSK Flight Mechanic
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Posts: 56
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Location: Under the router table at the factory
You should be fine just bracing it against the balcony wall. You could spring for a couple of long bar clamps to hold them in place, because smaller kits like the M6s can move around a bit.

If you're planning on routing them I would very much recommend you spring for a cheap router instead of filing/sanding them. There'll be a lot less hassle and time involved even though you might spend more at first.

Under the island, middle of a mountain / There is a big bad boomin' system
Blowin' speakers, woofers and tweeters / Amplifiers, melted wires
blaedd
Posted: Saturday, March 15, 2008 1:05:41 PM
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Location: Sydney
LSK_Colin wrote:
You should be fine just bracing it against the balcony wall. You could spring for a couple of long bar clamps to hold them in place, because smaller kits like the M6s can move around a bit.

If you're planning on routing them I would very much recommend you spring for a cheap router instead of filing/sanding them. There'll be a lot less hassle and time involved even though you might spend more at first.


Hmm.. I got some 18" bar clamps for clamping the kits, but no real way to clamp to the balcony. I get your meaning though, maybe I can find something substantial to clamp it to to stop it moving around as much.

As for the router, yeah that was the intent diytools.com.au has one for about $50.. Already sprung for an orbital sander, spent a fair amount on stuff to do the finish and I don't even have the kits yet! Still need to buy a decent polish and glaze as well, but that can wait until the paint is done ;-)

I want a roundover bit, yeah? What diameter do you guys usually use? Any plans on doing pre-routed edges as an option? :p

-David
Cal
Posted: Saturday, March 15, 2008 1:59:10 PM
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Posts: 17
Points: 75
Location: Karratha
You'd never get pre-routed kits to line up unless they were assembled and glued which would cost more in freight.

My smaller speakers were all routed with a 1/4" (6.4mm) bit and the sub was routed with a 5/16" (7.9mm), pics of which are in the brag section. These will be more expensive than the router to purchase unless you get one of the cheap kits with an assortment of sizes. Just make sure the round over bit has a roller bearing to guide you along the edge.

LSK_Colin
Posted: Sunday, March 16, 2008 11:52:07 AM
Rank: LSK Flight Mechanic
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Joined: 1/5/2008
Posts: 56
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Location: Under the router table at the factory
We use roundover bits on all our Waplington products - 6mm for the smaller kits (M4s, M5s, C5s, D4s), 10mm for nearly everything else (towers, M6s, C6s, S150), and 13mm for the larger subs (S250, S350).

Under the island, middle of a mountain / There is a big bad boomin' system
Blowin' speakers, woofers and tweeters / Amplifiers, melted wires
blaedd
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2008 12:09:45 AM
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Location: Sydney
Anyone used or seen these in action? Seems a slightly quieter/cheaper option for those of us in apartments ;-) Just not sure how much work it would be, and if they'd work okay on MDF.

http://www.timbecon.com.au/details/cornering-tool-8661.aspx

-David
blaedd
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2008 2:27:39 AM
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Location: Sydney
Ended up ordering a Ryobi router, router mat and a decent (ugh, $60) round over bit.

I'd feel bad if I weren't getting so many speakers. I keep dividing the cost by that number and try to feel better. ;-)Still need to get some polish and some more sandpaper (as an aside, there are some good guides on gloss finishes done by case-modders, http://www.mnpctech.com/case-mod-paint-computer-pc-case-mod-how-to.html looked pretty good)

-David
mimo
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2008 7:56:36 AM
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The edger certainly looks interesting. Not sure how it would handle MDF but may be worth a go. I'd certainly try it on a piece of scrap first as a test. Edge it all around to ensure the different textures of MDF are assessed.

As for the mirrot paint job...beautiful result but gee...if you don't have all the gear to start with it becomes an expensive exercise not to mention the amount of time required. Try the process on a TL6. You may have it ready by Christmas............2009!! Anxious . Might be OK for the smaller kits but still costly. Nontheless, very interesting links blaedd.

All things being equal...all things aren't equal
blaedd
Posted: Saturday, March 29, 2008 11:18:12 PM
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Location: Sydney
mimo wrote:

As for the mirrot paint job...beautiful result but gee...if you don't have all the gear to start with it becomes an expensive exercise not to mention the amount of time required. Try the process on a TL6. You may have it ready by Christmas............2009!! Anxious . Might be OK for the smaller kits but still costly. Nontheless, very interesting links blaedd.


Heh, well I have basically a full set on order for when I get back in the country now. S350, C6, 2xM6 and 2xTL6...

Going to give the paint thing a go on the subwoofer, since if i mess it up I can always hide it somewhere :-D Then see how I go. It wasn't *hideously* expensive buying the gear, cheap ryobi orbital sander, another couple of hundred on a router. cheapo polisher, though I may end up getting a pad for the sander instead.

That being said since I'll be building 6 speakers the overall pain of a few hundred dollars more really isn't *that* bad, and half the reason I'm going the kit route is to give me something to tinker with on the weekends for a while.

Then I need to make up my mind on a new receiver *sigh* :)

mimo
Posted: Sunday, March 30, 2008 9:13:17 AM
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blaedd wrote:
mimo wrote:

As for the mirrot paint job...beautiful result but gee...if you don't have all the gear to start with it becomes an expensive exercise not to mention the amount of time required. Try the process on a TL6. You may have it ready by Christmas............2009!! Anxious . Might be OK for the smaller kits but still costly. Nontheless, very interesting links blaedd.


Heh, well I have basically a full set on order for when I get back in the country now. S350, C6, 2xM6 and 2xTL6...

Going to give the paint thing a go on the subwoofer, since if i mess it up I can always hide it somewhere :-D Then see how I go. It wasn't *hideously* expensive buying the gear, cheap ryobi orbital sander, another couple of hundred on a router. cheapo polisher, though I may end up getting a pad for the sander instead.

That being said since I'll be building 6 speakers the overall pain of a few hundred dollars more really isn't *that* bad, and half the reason I'm going the kit route is to give me something to tinker with on the weekends for a while.

Then I need to make up my mind on a new receiver *sigh* :)



You're getting some great gear there blaedd. Don't skimp on the receiver. You'll be rewarded in the long term.

Let us know how you go with the paint job. Some pics would be great. Good luck.

All things being equal...all things aren't equal
blaedd
Posted: Monday, March 31, 2008 3:15:52 AM
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mimo wrote:


You're getting some great gear there blaedd. Don't skimp on the receiver. You'll be rewarded in the long term.

Let us know how you go with the paint job. Some pics would be great. Good luck.


Will do :-) Can't wait to get back (in Zurich right now for work). As for the receiver I'm currently still undecided. Tending towards the Onkyo 875, but the new Onkyos are due to start coming out soon, which may fix some of the issues in the current generation (but will have a price premium for a while :(). Decisions decisions.. It's something I can put off for a bit anyway.

Then I need a new display, but that can wait until next years bonus comes in :-) (by which time I think full HD 50" plasmas will have come down even more..mm.)

-David

blaedd
Posted: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 8:46:54 AM
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So I got the cabinets yesterday, tried assembling the S350.

I dry assembled it, after a bit of fiddling, it was a tight fit, but looked pretty flush. Went to assemble it for real and found myself in a jam. Not wanting a box stuck together *that* badly, I disassembled, wiped off what glue I could and left to dry.

Now, after a bit of sanding, I can forsee more sanding in my future, and a fair few raised edges and gaps. Meh. Well, I expected the S350 to be the test piece, since I can hide it. My questions is, I want to round over the edges with a router. Do I sand corners square, route, fill, sand? Or router, fill, then sand square? Any hints?

BTW, this thing is *huge*.

-David
LSK_Aaron
Posted: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 11:39:02 PM
Rank: Administration
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Location: LSK H.Q
What Team Waplington do when turning a LSK Kit into a Waplington master piece is...

1. Glue
2. Sand 60/80 grit then go over with 120 (sanding corners square)
3. Fill
4. Sand 120 then 240 - if required fill again
5. Route edges - some times this may require a little fill on the corners of the cabinet
6. hand sand with a 240

obviously the more time preping/filling and sanding the the cabinet the better the final result will be.

Hope that helps.



The Loud Speaker Kit
D.I.Y Audio Visual Specialists
blaedd
Posted: Thursday, April 17, 2008 10:39:04 AM
Rank: Kit Apprentice
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Joined: 1/5/2008
Posts: 23
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Location: Sydney
LSK_Aaron wrote:
What Team Waplington do when turning a LSK Kit into a Waplington master piece is...

1. Glue
2. Sand 60/80 grit then go over with 120 (sanding corners square)
3. Fill
4. Sand 120 then 240 - if required fill again
5. Route edges - some times this may require a little fill on the corners of the cabinet
6. hand sand with a 240

obviously the more time preping/filling and sanding the the cabinet the better the final result will be.

Hope that helps.



Great, thanks for the tips! :-) I'll pick up some 60/80/120 discs on the weekend. The sub is basically dominating my room at the moment. Need to get started on it...

-David
blaedd
Posted: Thursday, April 17, 2008 10:40:43 AM
Rank: Kit Apprentice
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Location: Sydney
As an aside, the M6's fitted together like a dream. A few small gaps that I'll fill, but they generally look pretty good. I'll upload photos when I get off my arse and get them off the camera. Also waiting on some better filler, the stuff I got before I'm not too find of.

Thinking of picking up the new receiver on the weekend, even though I don't have anywhere to put it right now.. Onkyo 875. I know I should wait for the new models, but meh... :)

-David
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