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Assembly advice/confirmation Options
Beefy
Posted: Friday, January 25, 2008 11:56:30 AM
Rank: Kit Apprentice
Groups: Member

Joined: 1/16/2008
Posts: 20
Points: 69
Hi all,

Got my M6 kit last night, confirmed everything was in the box, and did a dry run of assembling it. All seemed good, but I have a couple of questions......

The open box step was no problems at all, but the front and back panels were quite difficult to fit. It seems like there is a less-than-half-a-millimeter overlap between the sides/top of the empty box, and the inside edge of the front and back panels - thus very difficult to fit according to the instructions. I was able to easily fit the front and back by taking the top of the box off, sliding the front and back panels down into the correct spot, then re-fitting the top of the box..... but I don't want to do this for actual construction, because it will make a hell of a mess with glue. Any hints on a better way to fit the top and bottom? Or is it just a matter of care and perseverance to get that perfect angle at which it fits?

The acoustic padding...... is that just pushed into the back of the box as a single intact sheet, or is the idea to "fluff it up" a bit to fill in and cover as much of the box back/sides/bottom/top as possible?

Where is the best place for the crossover? Seems like it would sit happily at the bottom of the box, still reach the tweeter, and still be able to be routed around the padding. But I have a sneaking suspicion that the tuning port will push up against the crossover in this position.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Beefy
LSK_Colin
Posted: Friday, January 25, 2008 12:40:02 PM
Rank: LSK Flight Mechanic
Groups: Administration

Joined: 1/5/2008
Posts: 56
Points: 80
Location: Under the router table at the factory
Unfortunately this particular batch of M6s have very tight-fitting front/back panels. I drybuilt your pair on Tuesday and was able to slide the front/back panels on without too much hassle - try putting the panel on at an angle, with one of the corners in first, and then rotate it - see my appalling MSpaint here:



If it's still too tight you can always shave/scrape some of the wood away from the conflicting surface on the front/back panels, using a chisel or whatever.



I generally fluff up the acoustic stuffing slightly and spread it evenly over the back wall, it's basically there just to damp down standing waves and so on.

You can leave the crossover at the bottom, there is enough space for it to fit even with the port in place. I usually attach it to the back wall with hot glue, though, as I get annoyed by the rattling sound it makes if it's loose. You could also use small screws, but be careful of going through the back wall panel.

Under the island, middle of a mountain / There is a big bad boomin' system
Blowin' speakers, woofers and tweeters / Amplifiers, melted wires
Beefy
Posted: Friday, January 25, 2008 1:32:59 PM
Rank: Kit Apprentice
Groups: Member

Joined: 1/16/2008
Posts: 20
Points: 69
Yeah, I suspect I'm just being a bit tentative. Maybe I shouldn't have been dry build them on a polished wood floor.......

But rotating it into place is a great idea. Anchor one corner, the other corner should wedge in, then it should easily push down along its length.

I was thinking the crossover in bottom of the box, simply because it would be easy to route the wires under the stuffing. I'll just give up the hyper-organising and see how it looks when I actually get to that point.......

Cheers!
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